漢服短袖T恤剪裁教學 – 可不用縫紉機
![漢服短袖特寫](./resources/img/hanfu-tshirt-sewing-guide-feature.webp)
漢服的剪裁採用平面打板, 用這個方式製作T恤既易懂又省時間 – 它只有兩個需要縫合的地方! 如果你有被一般t恤的袖子打板難道, 那這個教程可以解除你的憂愁😄
視頻教程(字幕)
或在YouTube上觀看。
工具和材料
- 皮尺
- 筆
- 布料 (有無彈性都可)
- 布用筆
- 布用剪刀
- 針和線或縫紉機
- (可選)打印PDF教程
難度:適合初學者
所需時間:一小時左右
一般t恤 vs 漢服t恤
![](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-compare.webp)
一般t恤 | 漢服t恤 | |
---|---|---|
打板 | 立體打板 | 平面打板 |
袖型 | 標準肩袖 | 漢服袖/蝙蝠袖 |
縫合處 | 4 | 2 |
紙樣 | 2片+ (上身, 袖) |
1片 (上身+袖合一體) |
上身效果 | – 可以比較合身 – 手臂靈活性較小,腋下無多餘的布料 |
– 寬鬆 – 手臂靈活性大但腋下會有多餘的布料 |
兩種t恤雖然不同,但不意味着誰勝出一節。重點是對穿者來說哪個更合適。
如何量身
測量以下的尺寸,然後用公式計算出最終打板用的尺寸:
- 衣長 = 臀線至臀線(過肩)÷ 2
![hip to hip measurement goes over the shoulder vertically for calculating shirt length](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-1.webp)
- 袖長 = 上臂至上臂(從身後量)
![measure from left bicep to right bicep from back of th body wiht arms parallel to the floor extending out](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-2.webp)
- 袖根 =(手臂根圍(腋下繞肩)+ 6cm或2½in) ÷ 2
![set tape measure on the shoulder, draw it under the armpit with arm extending out](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-3a.webp)
![take measurement with arm relaxing by body's side](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-3b.webp)
- 衣寬(胸) =(胸圍 + 20cm或8in) ÷ 2
![take bust/chest circumference measurement with arms parallel to the floor extended straight](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-4.webp)
- 衣寬(臀) =(臀圍 + 20cm或8in)÷ 2
![circumference of hip measurement goes over the buttocks](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-5.webp)
- 領寬 =(脖子周圍 ÷ 2)+ 2cm或0.8in
![measure around the neck not holding the tape measure too tight](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-6.webp)
- *可選* 袖寬(上臂) =(上臂圍 + 10cm或4in)÷ 2
![bicep measurement is circumference of the bicep, measure loosely](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-measurement-7.webp)
製作流程
步驟1
![填寫並計算尺寸](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-step1.webp)
量身。依個人喜好更改尺寸—做長袖就增加袖長, 做t恤裙就增加衣長。
![long sleeve version of the 2-seam t-shirt with indigo spiral tie dye](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-longsleeve.webp)
![oversized version of the 2-seam t-shirt with half length sleeves](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-oversized.webp)
(右)半袖 oversized t恤
不必要剪出紙樣,可以直接在布料上畫出樣子。
步驟2
選好布料。布料大小需要:衣長x2比袖長。按曲線對摺布料。
![diagram showing a regtangle fabric that has a height by width ratio of 2 by 1, with horizontal fold line divinding fabric into 3 equal parts. grainline is vertical, direction of stretch is horizontal](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-fabric-size.webp)
步驟3
從1-6把尺寸畫在布上,畫出t恤的樣。
希望縫邊的就要加縫份。
![diagram showing the placements of all 7 measurements on the t-shirt](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram0.webp)
![diagram of the folded fabric with measurement one going vertical, measurement 2 going horizontal](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram1.webp)
![draw out measurement 3 from the fold line on the edges of the fabric](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram2.webp)
![find the vertical mid line of the folded fabric, align measurement 4 centered on the fabric at the level of measurement 3](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram3.webp)
![draw out the sleeves of t-shirt by connecting end points of measurement 4 to the edges of fabric (as marked out by measurment 3)](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram4.webp)
![align measurement 5 centered on the fabric on the bottom, connect its end points to the end points of measurement 4](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram5.webp)
![align measurement 6 centered on the fabric on the top (at the foldline), this is the collar hole.](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram6.webp)
不懂的地方可以參考視頻⬆。
步驟4
做些調整:
![where measurement 4 and 5 connect, round out the sharp angle for easier sewing](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-rounding.webp)
![reduce sleeve width according to measurement 7](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-diagram7.webp)
步驟5
剪出布樣然後手縫/車縫
![the t-shirt after cutting out the pattern shape](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-cut.webp)
步驟6
試衣,做需要的調整。
步驟7
縫邊/包邊或直接穿!領口也不必要包邊!
完工啦!
你做的成功嗎?可以發郵件告訴我們😃
我們喜歡用天然的靛藍泥來染我們的t恤。不同的布料會給不同色調的藍色,真的很美!
PDF教程下載(英文)
![sample of pdf download of 2-seam t-shirt guide](../resources/img/2-seam-tee-download.webp)