漢服短袖T恤剪裁教學 – 可不用縫紉機


漢服短袖特寫

漢服的剪裁採用平面打板, 用這個方式製作T恤既易懂又省時間 – 它只有兩個需要縫合的地方! 如果你有被一般t恤的袖子打板難道, 那這個教程可以解除你的憂愁😄

教程目錄:

  1. 視頻教程
  2. 工具和材料
  3. 一般t恤 vs 漢服t恤
  4. 如何量身
  5. 製作流程
  6. PDF教程下載

視頻教程(字幕)

在PeerTube上打開

或在YouTube上觀看。


工具和材料

難度:適合初學者

所需時間:一小時左右


一般t恤 vs 漢服t恤

比較兩種不同形制的t恤
一般t恤 漢服t恤
打板 立體打板 平面打板
袖型 標準肩袖 漢服袖/蝙蝠袖
縫合處 4 2
紙樣 2片+
(上身, 袖)
1片
(上身+袖合一體)
上身效果 – 可以比較合身
– 手臂靈活性較小,腋下無多餘的布料
– 寬鬆
– 手臂靈活性大但腋下會有多餘的布料

兩種t恤雖然不同,但不意味着誰勝出一節。重點是對穿者來說哪個更合適。


如何量身

測量以下的尺寸,然後用公式計算出最終打板用的尺寸:

  1. 衣長 = 臀線至臀線(過肩)÷ 2
hip to hip measurement goes over the shoulder vertically for calculating shirt length
衣長

  1. 袖長 = 上臂至上臂(從身後量)
measure from left bicep to right bicep from back of th body wiht arms parallel to the floor extending out
袖長

  1. 袖根 =(手臂根圍(腋下繞肩)+ 6cm或2½in) ÷ 2
set tape measure on the shoulder, draw it under the armpit with arm extending out take measurement with arm relaxing by body's side
袖根

  1. 衣寬(胸) =(胸圍 + 20cm或8in) ÷ 2
take bust/chest circumference measurement with arms parallel to the floor extended straight
胸圍

  1. 衣寬(臀) =(臀圍 + 20cm或8in)÷ 2
circumference of hip measurement goes over the buttocks
臀圍

  1. 領寬 =(脖子周圍 ÷ 2)+ 2cm或0.8in
measure around the neck not holding the tape measure too tight
領寬

  1. *可選* 袖寬(上臂) =(上臂圍 + 10cm或4in)÷ 2
bicep measurement is circumference of the bicep, measure loosely
上臂圍

製作流程

步驟1

填寫並計算尺寸

量身。依個人喜好更改尺寸—做長袖就增加袖長, 做t恤裙就增加衣長。

long sleeve version of the 2-seam t-shirt with indigo spiral tie dye oversized version of the 2-seam t-shirt with half length sleeves
(左)漢服長袖,使用天然靛藍染色;
(右)半袖 oversized t恤

不必要剪出紙樣,可以直接在布料上畫出樣子。

步驟2

選好布料。布料大小需要:衣長x2比袖長。按曲線對摺布料。

diagram showing a regtangle fabric that has a height by width ratio of 2 by 1, with horizontal fold line divinding fabric into 3 equal parts. grainline is vertical, direction of stretch is horizontal

步驟3

從1-6把尺寸畫在布上,畫出t恤的樣。

希望縫邊的就要加縫份。

diagram showing the placements of all 7 measurements on the t-shirt
diagram of the folded fabric with measurement one going vertical, measurement 2 going horizontal
draw out measurement 3 from the fold line on the edges of the fabric
find the vertical mid line of the folded fabric, align measurement 4 centered on the fabric at the level of measurement 3
draw out the sleeves of t-shirt by connecting end points of measurement 4 to the edges of fabric (as marked out by measurment 3)
align measurement 5 centered on the fabric on the bottom, connect its end points to the end points of measurement 4
align measurement 6 centered on the fabric on the top (at the foldline), this is the collar hole.

不懂的地方可以參考視頻⬆

步驟4

做些調整:

where measurement 4 and 5 connect, round out the sharp angle for easier sewing
腋下弧線
reduce sleeve width according to measurement 7
減少袖口寬(可選, 尺寸7

步驟5

剪出布樣然後手縫/車縫

the t-shirt after cutting out the pattern shape

步驟6

試衣,做需要的調整。

步驟7

縫邊/包邊或直接穿!領口也不必要包邊!

完工啦!

你做的成功嗎?可以發郵件告訴我們😃

我們喜歡用天然的靛藍泥來染我們的t恤。不同的布料會給不同色調的藍色,真的很美!


PDF教程下載(英文)

sample of pdf download of 2-seam t-shirt guide

謝謝你的閱讀,希望你有學到點什麼!